Home again, home again, jiggity jig

Only it wasn’t exactly ‘jiggity jig’. Rather it took almost twenty-nine hours to travel from Manila hotel to southern Ontario house. That included three flights–about 14000 km total distance and about 17 hours flying time (that doesn’t include the short hop from Dumaguete to Manila on Wednesday). The rest of the time was waiting in airports.
We got our wake-up call at 3:45 a.m. on Thursday morning, checked out of the hotel and went to the airport. Finally found a working ATM at the ‘Arrivals’ level of the terminal so we were able to get the 1500 pesos we needed for our departure tax as well as a little extra to cover breakfast. We didn’t have any excess baggage problems this time and our bags are checked through to Toronto. Immigration and security screening went smoothly but there weren’t many food options inside the secure area (none at all outside it). Doreen used the last of our money to buy a couple of bottles of water as she finds dehydration a real problem.
When we finally found our gate, we discovered a second set of security screens. We were told that the first screening had been ‘airport security’ and this was now ‘Northwest Airlines security’. The whole rigamarole again–computer out, shoes off, belt off, liquids on display in their plastic bag, etc. The upshot was that Doreen lost the water she’d just bought. Talk about ticked! The waiting area left a lot to be desired but we had a smooth flight to Tokyo.
We got off the plane in Narita and had to go through security again even though we haven’t been out of a secure area since Manila. We had a three-hour wait in Tokyo for our connection so Doreen used the time to browse the shops and buy some Japanese candies and other stuff. We’re back in the commercial world where we can use our credit cards. Hoorah! We found our gate, finally got our seat assignments straightened out and settled in to wait for boarding. Just as boarding should have commenced, they announced a gate change. When we got to the new gate, there was no plane so we waited a little longer.
Twelve hours later we’re in Detroit. It was a pretty good flight (very good meals) made even easier by a great flight attendant, Melody. We had to collect our luggage in Detroit and go through US Customs even though we were only transiting. The process has really slowed now with the requirement to fingerprint and photograph visitors (as Canadians, we were excluded). Then, once again, we were subjected to the screening process. This is getting ridiculous. We haven’t been out of a secure area since the Manila terminal and we’ve been screened four times. I guess nobody trusts the other guys to do an adequate screening job.
The easiest part of our trip was the drive from the Toronto airport. We landed in Toronto at 7:20 p.m. so we missed the rush hour traffic and our limo driver cruised. We were home by 8:30 p.m. Now all we have to do is reset our internal clocks–we also had to reset all the house clocks as Ontario has moved into ‘Daylight Saving Time’ while we were away.

A tale of two hotels

We spent most of our four weeks on the road in five resorts, two in Palau and three in the Philippines. However, because of the timing of our travel arrangements, there were a number of nights when we needed some place for just an overnight stay. Sometimes that worked out well. Sometimes, not so well.
Our flight from Palau back to Manila arrived about 9:30 p.m. but by the time we cleared customs and immigration, claimed our luggage, waited for the hotel pick-up, drove to the hotel and checked in, it was nearing midnight. We have an eight o’clock flight the next morning so Doreen had selected a hotel close to the airport. We were impressed with the staff and the room and decided to stay there on our return to Manila from Dumaguete. The alarm went off at 5:30 a.m., we grabbed a quick bite in the hotel lobby and then off to the airport and our flight to Tagbilaran City. We left with a wonderful impression of the Hotel and were looking forward to our return there.
Two weeks later, we’re back but where’s the real Nichols Hotel? The desk people were inattentive and the lobby had been re-arranged to be used as a dining area while the coffee shop is under renovation. We were told, as far as I could understand, that our former room (rated a superior room) was unavailable and we had been upgraded to a deluxe room. That’s not what we saw when we walked into room 458. It was small and dingy and every time we moved something another bug went scurrying. After several trips to the front desk to complain we were moved to room 372–a larger, cleaner, nicer-looking room but with an inadequate shower. Not a patch on the room we’d had on our first visit. This time the alarm is set for 3:45 a.m. as we have to check in for an international flight.
We had better luck with the Metro Center Hotel in Tagbilaran. The Isla Hayahay driver dropped us off there to await our pickup by Balicasag, we liked the look of the place and booked a room for Wednesday night. When we got back from Balicasag Island, we found ourselves in an large, airy, nicely-appointed room. The hotel also had an indoor pool, a workout room, a games room and a sauna–all small but serviceable. More importantly, the hotel’s business center offered free wi-fi service and the restaurant provided decent food at affordable prices. And it was only a short ride to the ferry dock.

The curse of the excess baggage

We never travel lightly (see a previous post about our packing). We tend to use the airlines’ restrictions as our guide and we’re always near, or slightly over, their limits. This trip was no exception and we knew going in that there would be some excess baggage fees. We were fine with the major carriers–Northwest Airlines for Toronto to Manila and return, and Continental for the trip from Manila to Palau and back. Their guidelines are fairly generous.
The first problem would be our flight from Manila to Tagbilaran City on Philippines Air Line. They restrict checked luggage to 15 kg and carry-on luggage to 7 kg. We had run into this problem last year and had built the extra cost into our budget. When we checked in on Thursday morning, we had to pay an extra 612 pesos. No problem. However, when we tried to go through the security checkpoint, the lady decided that Doreen’s carry-on was too heavy and sent her back to pay an additional fee. Doreen was already stressed over our inability to find an ATM that would accept our Canadian bank card and we had very little money on hand.
Once we got past that hurdle, we thought we were home free. Our next transit was by ferry from the island of Bohol to the island of Negroes. One of the reasons Doreen had chosen this route was to avoid another trip on PAL with their baggage limits. Little did we know that the ferry system had similar restrictions. When we showed up at the ferry dock the following Thursday, they weighed all our luggage and assessed an extra fee of 400 pesos plus tax. In addition, we then had to pay another 150 pesos for the porter to put the luggage on the ferry as you’re not allowed to carry it yourself. (Hope Marine Atlantic doesn’t catch on to this scheme.)
Our final trip on PAL was a flight from Dumaguete to Manila the following Wednesday. We had figured that excess baggage would not be a problem by that time as we would have either consumed, or would leave behind, many of the consumables (sun screens, food stuffs, etc.) we had packed. Doreen had brought her luggage scale and things looked good when we weighed our luggage at the resort before departing for the airport. And then we checked in with the airline. According to their scale, we were heavier than when we’d started on our trip–more than 13 kg over the limit. In addition, since our last trip just two weeks ago, they’d increased their fees (more than doubling the cost/kg).
We were hit with an excess baggage fee of more than 1400 pesos and, at the Dumaguete airport, they didn’t accept credit cards. We had to use the 1500 pesos we’d set aside for the departure tax. If we don’t find a functioning ATM in Manila, we won’t be able to get out of the country.

Some final thoughts

Security - There is an ongoing insurgency in the southern part of the country and we’ve been getting frequent e-travel alerts since we started planning this trip. We’ve mainly ignored them because we weren’t traveling to those areas. Here, on the ground in the Philippines, it’s a different story as there’s always the possibility that the insurgents will attack unsuspecting targets. We were surprised when we arrived at Balicasag Island Dive Resort and found an armed guard patrolling the grounds–it’s a small island with less than seven hundred villagers.
While we were in Tagbilaran City awaiting the ferry to Dumaguete, we went looking for a bank to get some pesos (PHP). We hadn’t had any luck with ATM’s up to now, we couldn’t cash any travelers’ cheques and few places were taking credit cards. We finally found a bank which accepted our North American bank card (the Bank of the Philippine Islands). The interesting thing as we wandered the street was that all the banks had several, seriously-armed guards outside their doors and they were checking all customers (and my computer back-pack). Several of the pawnshops and other stores had armed guards as well.
While we were at El Dorado, we decided to take the shuttle into Dumaguete and have a look at the town. Doreen had read some comments on the Web about things to see so we took a break from our snorkeling. It turned out to be not as depressing as it had seemed last year but, on the other hand, not as interesting as we had hoped. One of the places we wanted to see was the university campus but the entire area is fenced, you enter/exit through security check-points where you must leave your ID. Since the only ID Doreen was carrying that day was her camera warranty card, we were refused entry.
Snorkeling - We’ve done two trips to Apo Island with dive groups and, both days, the ocean was less than cooperative. A serious current and noticeable wave action have put a crimp into our picture taking. It’s hard enough to capture the moving fish when you’re able to hover and frame the shot. It’s almost impossible to do when you’re bobbing and drifting. Thank God for digital cameras (just delete, baby). At least coral and anenome fish tend to stay where they are. The ocean conditions also meant that we could only dive/snorkel sites on the protected side of the island. It was still good snorkeling (but not quite Palau) and well worth the wet ride back to the resort.
We’ve also done two days at Dauin Reserve, a 20 minute walk down the beach. It’s as good as we remember from last year. The first morning we were faced with an incoming tide and a noticeable drift but the next afternoon we were in ‘hover heaven’, Doreen’s preferred form of snorkeling. The anenome fish were still here and Doreen had a functioning camera so she was happy. Lots of big fish, plenty of colorful coral, a small entry fee - life is good. Too bad we have to go home now (on the other hand, we’re ready to go home and tired of living out of a suitcase).
It’s interesting to compare our reaction to snorkeling in the Philippines this year to our impressions last year. Then, we were coming off some disappointing ventures in Thailand and Malaysia and the Philippines were awesome. This year, we’re coming off lots of incredible snorkeling in Palau and the Philippines are still very good but not quite as awesome. I think we’re snorkeled out for now. I’m sure it will take only one snow fall to change that perspective again.

Random thoughts from the Philippines

Traffic - You couldn’t pay me to drive in the Philippines. The traffic is horrendous and rules of the road seem to be non-existant. Palau wasn’t too bad even though the steering wheel was on the right side of the car and we drove on the right side of the road. It was different for the driver to be close to the edge of the road and the passenger to be closer to oncoming traffic. Doreen was uncomfortable with the arrangement–could it be she doesn’t trust my driving? At least we weren’t driving a standard transmission so I didn’t have to worry about constantly shifting gears with my left hand. I even managed to signal turns without switching on the windshield wipers.
We overnighted in Manila in transit from Palau and left the hotel for the airport shortly before 6 a..m. The streets were already clogged with traffic–both pedestrian and vehicular. We landed in the small town of Tagbilaran City and the traffic was just as bad. Things quieted down when we got out into the countryside but never totally petered out. There are all kinds of rigs on the road–everything from two wheels, to three, four, six and more. Some are pedal power, some are small motors–all go at different rates of speed. Nobody signals lane changes for passing (actually did find one driver who used his signal lights–the chap who drove us to the boat to Balicasag Island). Many of the small rigs have no lights so night time is particularly dangerous. Our driver at Isla Hayahay, Harold, told me you have to watch for hand signals (local variety)–another problem for night driving. Despite the seeming chaos, we haven’t seen a single accident (we’ve heard of one).
There don’t seem to be any limits on number of passengers. We’ve seen motorbikes with four and five people–mom, dad, the kids and all the groceries they’ve just bought at the local market. There’s a helmet law but it’s not enforced and only a small minority of riders bother with a helmet. The jeepneys are something else, especially with their wild colors. When all the inside space (sitting and standing) is taken, people start hanging on the outside, standing on the bumpers and in open windows and sitting on the roof. It’s an incredible sight.
Housing - There’s a wild variety of house styles in the Philippines. All you need are a few concrete blocks, a little wood, some corrugated metal, maybe some pandanus thatch and, presto, you can build a house. In the small villages we traversed, it seemed every second or third house was a little store. Or else they were using the advertising signs as a replacement for siding on their houses. Many of the houses look like they couldn’t stand up to the ‘big, bad wolf’ let alone a tropical storm. But people take pride in their property, sweeping up morning and afternoon, and planting flowers everywhere.
Tourism - There’s a charge for everything it seems. You want to see the old church? Pay here. You want to see the tarsiers? Pay here. You want to see the ‘Chocolate Hills’? Pay here. It’s almost like Niagara Falls charging a fee to everybody who comes to see the Falls. The fees are fairly small but they’re constant. And everywhere there are souvenir sellers and hawkers. Some of them are more than a little persistent. From their viewpoint, I guess they’re simple showing initiative and working hard to supply a life for their family. You get a different perspective when you get a chance to talk to some of them, like our guide for the Isla Hayahay tours, Benjamin. He’s worked for government boards for years, wants to be a teacher and supplements his income with his guiding.
Poverty - There are simply too many people for the resources the islands have. Most of the people work hard and take pride in their country but there isn’t enough to go around. By our standards, many of the people live in third-world conditions. Despite the bright colors (especially the buses and jeepneys), everything looks dingy and drab. One thing we noticed was the overwhelming presence of cell phones. The kids might not have a good shirt or pair of pants but they have a cell phone. Benjamin confirmed this but noted that he could afford only to use his cell phone for texting, rather than talking, and he had to share his cell phone with his daughter.
Accommodations - We lucked out with Isla Hayahay, a small resort on the island of Pangangan which is connected to Bohol by a community-built causeway (3.5 km of unpaved, very bumpy road–it takes 10 minutes to drive). We were the only guests in residence so were catered to–what time would you like breakfast, etc. The staff were very personable and committed to ensuring we enjoyed our stay. We had one day on the water and one day for a land tour and both were enjoyable. We weren’t as lucky with the Balicasag Island Dive Resort, a government-run facility. There aren’t any divers in residence so we haven’t been able to book any excursions. We’ve had to settle for snorkeling from shore. It’s a marine reserve so it’s been pretty good but, I think after the wonder of Palau, anything would be anti-climatic. The staff seem to be coasting with minimal effort to see to guests’ concerns and no attempt to anticipate guests’ needs. The marine reserve is very popular, with many people coming on day trips from nearby islands. The place is being loved to death–lots of dead coral because people walk on it. Somewhat reminiscent of the bad, old days at Hanauma Bay.

Still rocking in Palau

Just when you think things can’t get any better, they do. At least they do here in Palau. Remember that old saying when you were enjoying something, “I’ve died and gone to Heaven”. Well, from now on, I’m thinking, “I’ve died and gone to Palau”. How do you top two great days on the water? You book another snorkel tour with Sam’s Tours. When we showed up on Sunday morning, we learned that we were the only people on the boat (their business is hurting or they never would send a boat out with only two people).
We gave our guide, Jimmy, some simple instructions: we’ve already been to Jellyfish Lake and the Milky Way so just take us to those snorkel spots you think we shouldn’t leave Palau without seeing. Did he ever fill the day with wonder! We hit the German Channel, the Big Drop-off (just as impressive the second time around), the Blue Hole, the Blue Corner, Turtle Cove, the inner reef and finished at Cemetery Reef (this time without crowds). By the time we climbed aboard the boat after Cemetery, we were beat. That’s the most snorkeling we’ve ever done in one day and the sites ranged from great to terrific to awesome.
The German Channel is another drift snorkel but the current is stronger than at the big drop-off. Jimmy drops us off at one spot and tells us the boat will pick us up ‘down there’, just let the current carry us along. As soon as we step off the boat, there’s a 6-8 foot shark just off to my right. Thank god, he’s headed in the opposite direction. I don’t really want to drift along with a shark. A while later, I spot another, slightly smaller shark (4-6 ft.) ahead, on a course perpendicular to mine. The question is ‘who will get to the intersection spot first?’. Slow down, current. The shark wins the race and crosses about six feet in front of me.
The only bad thing about the day is that I don’t have a functioning camera. My camera uses two rechargeable AA batteries and I usually carry a plentiful supply on any trip. For this boat ride, I stupidly decided to rely on the batteries in the camera and took only four spares with me. I took a few pictures at the marina before we left and got a battery warning from the camera. In go the first set of replacements. When we got into the water at the German Channel, I took about four pictures and got another ‘change batteries’ warning. When I went for the third set, I discovered that one had fallen out of my pocket (either in the chair at the hotel or in the bus on the way to the marina). The camera won’t work with one good and one bad battery so no more pictures. Too late to swing by the hotel and get all of those good batteries that are sitting in my camera case. Will I ever learn?
One interesting thing I noted. Without the camera, I probably saw more as I was constantly looking and never had to stop and concentrate on lining up a fish. Sorry but I can’t share my mental pictures with you. Doreen has some good shots which we’ll post.
We rented a car for our last three days and thought we’d drive around and see some of the land area, particularly the large island of Babeldaob. The road was good but the views weren’t as interesting as we’d hoped and the signage was almost non-existant. We missed most of the points of interest we set out to see. Doreen thinks the land tour companies have conspired and exerted political pressure to protect their business. She plans to note her complaint with the Palau Visitors Center. Oh, well, the ocean activities have made this the trip of a lifetime.

The Rock Islands rock

We’ve just spent two of the best days we’ve ever had on a trip. On Thursday, we booked a Planet Blue kayak trip with Sam’s Tours. On Friday, we got together with a German couple we’d met on the beach at the Palau Pacific Resort last week and, along with their friends who arrived on Wednesday night, we chartered a boat to take us to some snorkel spots. Both trips were expensive (by our standards) but it was money well spent. Today we need a down day to rest up from sensory overload. Tomorrow we’re booked with Sam’s for another snorkel tour.
Wednesday morning we checked out Riptide, a small beach from which you could snorkel. We walked there from Sam’s where we had booked our tour for Thursday. We were the only ones in the water. The snorkeling wasn’t very good because the water was murky (probably from all the rain on Tuesday), there was a noticeable lop on the water and there weren’t a lot of fish. It wasn’t a total loss as there was some nice coral and we did spot an octopus. We watched him for a while but he wouldn’t move out of the rocks for us. We ate lunch at the Riptide Restaurant where the food was so-so and the service was very slow.
Sam’s picked us up at 7:45 on Thursday morning but the tour didn’t leave until about 9. They did a good job of explaining the plan for the day and showing us the map of the area we’d be exploring. There were only five of us along with two guides (Sheft and Sean), a boat driver and a boat driver’s assistant. The boat took us to the Risong Bay area of the Rock Islands, where we unloaded the kayaks and set out on our trek. Our first destination was Shark Bay, an area where baby sharks hang out and develop their survival skills until they’re ready for the open ocean. Then it was on to check out the sunken Japanese boat (one of many remnants of WW2 in this area).
We took our first break at Lee Marvin Beach where we parked the kayaks and snorkeled an area known as Blue Devil Gardens. It was mostly sea grass with little coral but there were tons of the blue damsel fish. We had a chance to explore the island before it was back to the kayaks. We followed the shoreline and marveled at the colors and the clarity of the water. We met up with the boat in a small cove, linked the kayaks together and had lunch on shore. After lunch we explored the area which had been a big cave until the roof had collapsed and snorkeled for a little while.
The afternoon’s paddling culminated in our arrival at Mandarin Fish Lake, where we jettisoned the kayaks and had our final snorkel. Sheft showed us where the mandarin fish were hiding (they’re so small they’re easy to miss) and Doreen got some great pictures. That made the trip for her. We spent an hour snorkeling the lake and saw some great coral and lots of other fish, including several that we hadn’t seen before. All too soon it was time to head back to the boat and back to the dock. What a great day!!!
As good as Thursday was, Friday was even better. We took a taxi to the Landmark Hotel and met up with Jo and Monika and their friends, Margit and Manny. The trip didn’t start out well as it began to rain just as we pulled away from the dock. Between the rain and the waves splashing, it didn’t take long for everything to get soaking wet. Our first stop was the Milky Way, a lake when the limestone deposits on the bottom provide for a mud bath. We then settled in for a long boat ride out to the Ngemelis Wall where we would snorkel an area known as ‘the big drop off’. It’s one of the world’s premier dive spots with the wall going down hundreds of feet.
We got our gear on and jumped into the water. And were instantly transported. We were over some beautiful coral, there was more everywhere you looked and the place was teeming with fish of all colors and sizes. And off to the left was this yawning blue abyss. Oh my gawd! It’s a wonder I didn’t drown with my jaw having dropped so much and my mouth hanging open. Where to look next. There’s a strong current so it was to be a drift snorkel with the boat picking us up at the end. We drifted along taking pictures galore (including some passing sharks). It was the most amazing snorkel we’ve ever done. Two more sharks at the end just as we headed for the boat were the icing on the cake.
We had lunch at Ngermeaus Island. After lunch we did a little beach combing before jumping in the water to watch some sharks. Then it was off to Jellyfish Lake, the wonder that had first sparked our interest in Palau. It’s a bit of a hike into the lake, up hill and then down hill, but, with the help of the installed ropes, we managed. The jellyfish in the lake follow the sun so we had to hunt for them. First you see the odd one (no tentacles), then several at a time, then groups, then you’re surrounded by hundreds of jellyfish. It’s surreal. They’re surprisingly soft and surprisingly heavy. Our guide, Veronica, even managed to find a large moon jellyfish. Jellyfish Lake more than lived up to our expectations.
We did a quick snorkel at Clam City but it wasn’t very exciting (pales by comparison??) and the seas were rough so we moved on. Our final destination was a spot called ‘Cemetery Reef’. This is another great area with beautiful coral and lots of fish. We even saw a Napoleon wrasse. I finally called it a day when I’d exhausted the batteries in my camera. Lots to see but no more pictures. We took the scenic route back through the Rock Islands to the marina (I don’t think there is anything other than a scenic route no matter which way you go).
If we win the lottery, we’re coming back here to do this again.

It never rains in Southern California

And it’s not supposed to rain in Palau this time of year. But, just our luck, Palau’s weather patterns are changing and this year has seen an inordinate rainfall during this, the supposedly dry season. Chalk up another one for global warming and its effects on the world’s weather. We make it to the beach on Saturday afternoon after checking into the Carolines Resort. We’ve been traveling since Wednesday morning so we need to relax and unwind. Lather on the sunscreen and get ready to soak up some rays. Maybe 26 seconds worth. Then the skies opened up and we got soaked. So much for our first day in this island paradise.
We didn’t have a whole lot of fun getting here either. We started with a short 45 minute hop from Toronto to Detroit. But only after an extra 30 minutes of de-icing thanks to our lovely weather. At least, we’ll be leaving winter behind. The second leg took us from Detroit to Tokyo, a distance of almost 19 800 km (probably the longest single flight we’ve ever taken - maybe surpassed only by Los Angeles to Sydney). We went north over Hudson’s Bay and passed over Russia before heading south to Japan. The flight seemed even longer because the electronics on the plane weren’t working properly and we lacked the constant updates of our progress on the tracking display. We just flew on and on and the sun kept shining. Two saving graces–we had an empty seat between us which made things comfortable and the airline did a good job of feeding us (a nice dinner, sandwich snack and breakfast).
After a three hour wait in Tokyo, we flew on to Manila (a mere 2200 km) where we overnighted at the Oasis Hotel. The taxi driver had some trouble finding the hotel so it was close to midnight (on Thursday night) before we were able to hit the sack. The flight to Palau doesn’t leave until ten o’clock on Friday night so we have a day to wander around and see some of Manila, particularly Rizal Park, the old walled city of Intromoros and the church of St. Augustin (easy to tell it was a Roman Catholic church as it shared many similar features with St. Patrick’s in St. John’s).
The taxi ride to the airport was an exercise in frustration for our driver. Traffic was horrendous and driving habits left a lot to be desired. Signaling lane changes must be against the rules. Drivers rely on accelerator, brake and horn. Check in was a breeze as were immigration and security. There was a second, much more thorough security check at the gate. The flight landed in Palau at 1:50 am, immigration, customs and luggage went quickly, the pick-up from Lehns Hotel was on hand and the hotel was only a short ride. Still in all, it was past 3 am when we finally closed the door of our hotel room. We’ll check in after we get some sleep.
Actually, we’ll check out at the same time as this was just an overnight rest. We’re off to the Carolines Resort, which has beach privileges with the Palau Pacific Resort. We’re in a bungalow up in the hills with a gorgeous view. The downside is that this ‘resort’ doesn’t have any facilities beyond the eight bungalows. The people are terrific but we’re dependent on the resort’s shuttle service to get back and forth to the beach and to the restaurants in town. The shuttle service used to be free but now it carries a small fee.
We spend the next two days at the PPR. The beach is adequate, the resort is beautiful and the prices for lunch are surprisingly reasonable. The snorkeling is generally very good with plenty of colorful fish and outstanding giant clams. We even see a ray, a turtle, an octopus and a sea snake (note the singular). Two things keep the snorkeling from the terrific category. There isn’t as much coral as we’d like to see, particularly the soft corals. The biggest drawback is the visibility factor. The water just isn’t very clear. Maybe the daily rains have something to do with this because there’s a lot of sediment in the water. It certainly isn’t coming from wave action stirring up the sand because this is about the flattest stretch of ocean I’ve ever seen.
On Tuesday morning, we have time for one last snorkel at the PPR before we check out of the Carolines. Just as we’re about to begin the transfer of our luggage to the shuttle, the skies open and it starts to pour. It’s still raining heavily when we check in (again) at Lehns. The rest of the afternoon swung back and forth between downpour and drizzle. At least we don’t have to worry about sunburn today. Incidentally, this is the closest we’ve ever been to the Equator and the sun is really strong (when it shines). I’m finding that even my 30 and 15 SPF lotions aren’t quite up to the challenge. Using an 8 gives me about fifteen minutes before I burn. I think I need to find some new sun screen before we begin taking some of these full day boat trips.

Packing for Palau

It’s almost here. We leave for Palau on Wednesday. Of course, we don’t get there until Friday (it’s a long trip and we cross the International Date Line). It’s been a long time coming. We first started thinking/dreaming about Palau more than ten years ago when we learned about Jellyfish Lake. Just think–snorkel with jellyfish and don’t worry about stings. In 2002, we found our first magazine article with information and pictures and, in 2005, “Survivor” was sited in Palau’s Rock Islands. One of the rewards given to the winners of a challenge was a visit to Jellyfish Lake.
The big problem with Palau has always been its location. It’s out by itself in the North Pacific. You can’t just swing by on your way to somewhere else. You fly into Palau and then you fly back to where you started. For years, that looked like Hawaii to Guam to Palau. This trip we’re going Tokyo to Manila to Palau so we’ll stay over in the Philippines for a couple of weeks afterwards and check out a few more snorkeling spots.
But first we must get through the packing. I just love those magazine articles (and the Tilley catalogue) which suggest you can get all you need for an around-the-world trip into one little carry-on. Most times, we seem to travel with ‘the kitchen sink’. This year, I’m determined to travel light. Northwest and Continental both have generous baggage allowances but PAL has a 15 kg limit on their fights. So, I select my clothing carefully with an emphasis on mix-and-match and washability and I’m pleasantly surprised. I have a neat little pile laid out (emphasis on little). Maybe it will fit into one carry-on piece.
But, wait. I need to add my toiletries. And my shoes (how many pairs?). And my snorkel gear. Guess I will need a big bag. Have I forgotten anything? Oh, yeah, suntan lotions or I’ll be a lobster. Adaptors and such to accommodate the electrical system and plugs in Asia. My vitamins and pills (it was a lot simpler when I was younger). Some basic foodstuff just in case I don’t like the local cuisines. Tea bags, of course. And what would tea be without Carnation milk. A couple of books to read and some crossword puzzles to while away down time. Now, we’re into one checked bag and one carry-on. Two carry-ons, actually because I need to take my laptop if I’m going to keep blogging and posting pictures. Doreen’s having similar problems. Guess we’ll have to put excess baggage fees into our budget.
I bought a travel vest from Magellan’s last year and it’s many pockets will come in handy for all the left-over things–iPod, camera, Gorillapod, peppermint knobs, etc. Yes, sirree, I’m really traveling light this year.

Reflecting on the past eight months

Here we are in 2009, preparing for a return trip to the Philippines to see if we can find any more ‘Nemos’. That’s after we swim with the jellyfish in Palau. It seems like a long time since we were snorkeling at the Dauin Reserve and yet it seems like we’ve been constantly on the go. I think putting 20 000 kilometers on the car since mid-May has a lot to do with that.
We drove to Atlanta at the end of May to get a refill on time with the grandkids. A weekend of baby-sitting gives Travis and Wanda a chance to get away with friends for a short break. We have enough energy to get through the week-end (just barely) and it’s a great way to get to know the children. They’ve been a delight since the beginning and it just keeps getting better as they grow and change.
From Atlanta, we motored over to Virginia Beach. Doreen’s sister had finally decided to apply for her US citizenship. The naturalization ceremony was held in Colonial Williamsburg on a gorgeous late spring morning. What a wonderful setting! There was quite a diverse group, representing a multitude of countries. The US is indeed a ‘melting pot’.
We were back in Atlanta at the end of July for a birthday party. With actual birthdays at the end of June and August, the grandkids’ parties get caught up in the July 4th and Labor Day weekends when many of their friends are out of town. So, this year, Wanda decided to split the difference and have one joint party at the end of July. Everybody seemed to have a good time. The kids really enjoyed the idea as it expanded their gift-receiving opportunities. (Of course, there were still family birthday parties for each on the specific day.) What kid wouldn’t go for a second birthday party. We were really impressed with the strides both kids had made with their swimming lessons. They love going to the pool and they’re becoming little fish. Doreen can’t wait to take them snorkeling somewhere.
There aren’t any significant beaches in either Burlington or Atlanta so we took another trip to Virginia Beach instead of coming home. The beaches along the Chesapeake and the Oceanfront don’t rival the beaches of the Caribbean or the South Pacific but the combination of sun, sand and warmth does wonders for one’s psyche.
We were back in Virginia Beach in September for Curtis’ wedding. It was a chance to re-connect with some of Doreen’s family who came for the wedding and to get to know Adrienne. She and Curtis are an interesting couple and seem to bring out the best in each other. We’ve had fun tracking their blogs.
Halloween provided another excuse to visit Atlanta. The kids are currently into ‘Star Wars’ so Doreen made costumes–Princess Laia and Luke Skywalker. She also made a ‘Darth Vader’ costume for herself so she could accompany the kids on their foray through the neighbourhood. The costumes were completed with working ‘light sabers’. To be precise, the light sabers were working until one too many enthusiastic confrontation between the Jedi knights and the ‘Dark Forces’. It’s interesting to note that the kids have no trouble mixing new characters with the old set that Travis had retained in storage (in his Darth Vader case) since he and Stacy engaged in similar play when they were kids.
We did a final swing through Virginia Beach and Atlanta in December so we could have early Christmas celebrations with Bonnie and Dave and Travis and family. Bonnie was off to South Carolina to spend Christmas with her grand-daughter while Travis and family did their annual pilgrimage to St. John’s. We got back to Burlington just in time to join Stacy for a Christmas Eve get-together with Jim’s family and a Christmas dinner at John’s place in Newmarket.
And now 2008 has ended and a new year’s just begun. A couple of months of snow and cold weather to endure but we’ll shorten winter by taking our break to Palau and the Phillipines.