As Thomas Wolfe’s protagonist, George Webber, discovered, time passes and things and places change. We had really enjoyed Jibacoa in January despite the early weather problems. We found the people (staff and guests) at Chameleon Villas Jibacoa friendly and interesting. And, once the ocean settled down, the jellyfish disappeared and the weather warmed up, we found the snorkeling among the best we had done in the Caribbean. So, when we had a chance at a last-minute, cheap week in June, we jumped at it. Didn’t quite work out.
The first big change was that we opted for the upscale Breezes Resort rather than a return to CVJ. Breezes was bigger and therein lay some of the problems. The room was larger and better furnished with nicer facilities, the food at the buffet dining room was generally better, the ‘a la carte’ restaurants were definitely better, the pool was better, and the evening entertainment was better (especially the aqua ballet and magic shows). It was nice to be able to brew tea/coffee in our room because, just as at CVJ, they weren’t available at dinner.
What wasn’t better was the overall ambience of our stay. The staff didn’t connect with the guests (except in rare cases) and didn’t seem to find any joy in their jobs. One bartender at the beach bar didn’t crack a smile (that I saw) the whole week. On the other hand, the cook who prepared omelets at breakfast was a delight. As good as the food was, lunch and dinner became nearly indistinguishable as the week went on. Thank the powers that be for the two ‘a la carte’ dinners we were allowed - both were excellent (even if I had to wear long pants at Martino’s).
Because there were so many places to hang out, the guests never seemed to connect with each other either but, instead, kept to their little groups. At CVJ, you saw the same people at meals, at the bar, on the beach, in the lobby - it was like a large, extended family and conversations were the norm. At Breezes, I don’t think we sat next to the same people for two meals the entire week. People we saw in the dining room, we didn’t see on the beach and people we saw on the beach, we didn’t see in the dining room. Or, maybe we did and just didn’t recognize them because they were ‘dressed’ for dinner.
We had really enjoyed the snorkeling in January and were looking forward to the warmer water which would allow us to stay in longer and range farther afield. We had seen lionfish, flounders, a barracuda, an octopus, an eel, several rays, a couple of worms and lots of beautiful corals and colorful fish. About the only thing that lived up to expectations was the warmth of the water - I never once felt chilled. Visibility was another matter. Didn’t see the lionfish, flounders, barracuda, octopus, etc. Of course, most of the time visibility was only three or four feet and, sometimes, much less than that. There was an incredible amount of sediment in the water. Even the fish and corals that you could see looked dull and drab.
For the entire week, I took only 42 pictures, 18 in the water. That’s less than one day’s production on a normal trip. That includes duplicates and before eliminating pictures that didn’t quite work out. I haven’t run them through PSE yet but I don’t think I’ll have enough to bother posting. I was in the water about six or seven times over the span of the week (the beach was red-flagged two days because of high waves and strong currents) and took pictures only twice. The last two days I didn’t even turn on my camera because the visibility was so poor.
Doreen had even worse luck. Our first snorkel on Sunday afternoon she forgot her camera but wasn’t too upset because it wasn’t a great snorkel. Our second snorkel, on Monday morning, had to be cut short so we could attend the orientation meeting with the tour rep. However, we were in the water long enough for Doreen get water in her camera. Bye, bye picture taking. Bye, bye camera. After the orientation meeting, we went for a walk on the beach and Doreen cracked a toe on her left foot when she smacked into a rock under the sand. She hobbled for the next few days, unable to tolerate putting on her fin so no more snorkeling for her.
By Thursday, she was feeling better and ready to give it another go but the red flag was flying. We went to visit with some of the workers at CVJ that we had met in January. Just as we got there, it started to rain and Doreen slipped on the wet tile and wrenched her left foot again. Back to square one. She was still hobbling when we got home and the x-ray confirmed the break.
Now, we’re torn. Would we go back? If we do, it would definitely be CVJ rather than Breezes. Is there a time when we could have the warmth of June with the visibility of January? And, without the jellyfish?
Thursday, July 1, 2010
Tuesday, June 29, 2010
Jibacoa Redux
We’ve picked up a relatively cheap, last-minute trip to Cuba so we’ll be returning to Jibacoa for a week of sun, sand and snorkeling. This time we’ll be staying at Breezes, the resort next door to the Chameleon Villas Jibacoa (CVJ). Breezes is much larger and is rated a couple of stars higher. The price difference was so small that we decided on the posher resort even though we had really enjoyed ourselves at CVJ in January. We’ll see.
Nothing like getting off to an early start. The flight to Varadero leaves at 6:30 am so we’re up at 3:30 to get to the airport, park the car and take the shuttle to the terminal for our 4:30 check-in. Surprising number of cars on the road even that early in the morning. Check-in is no problem though our bags are pushing the weight limit (How much do you need for a week?)
Security throws up a roadblock. Doreen has packed a sewing kit in her carry-on luggage and it includes a pair of ‘snips’ for cutting threads. This deadly weapon brings out the red flags - the blades are extremely sharp and at least as long as a fingernail - she can’t be allowed to carry this onto the plane. (I guess they’re afraid we’ll highjack the plane to Cuba - oh, wait, that’s where we’re headed.) Since she paid $30 for these ‘snips’, Doreen isn’t prepared to throw them away. She has to take them back outside the secure area where she’s faced with two choices - either mail them to the house (at a cost of $15) or put them in storage at the airport until we return next week (at a cost of $12).
The flight itself was uneventful. We arrived in Cuba and passed through their security check with no problems. I’m determined not to lose my visa card this time so I’m extra careful with the paperwork. Our ride to the resort is delayed - something about the bus driver being sick (I think that’s what was said) - so we stand around in the blistering heat for almost half an hour. I don’t think we’ll be hearing the word ‘frio’ much this week.
There were four other couples on the bus but there wasn’t much interaction or conversation. Lots to look at on the ride to Breezes as we’d done this ride in the dark in January. We were able to check-in early but had to drag our own bags to the second-floor room (one strike against the four-star rating). Nice, large room but not a lot of places to hang things. Lunch in the dining room was okay but nothing special - very similar to CVJ.
Got some sun after lunch and then prepared for our first snorkel. Major disappointment - the visibility was terrible. The wind is blowing, the sea is roiled up and there’s a lot of sediment in the water. Not much picture taking here. The beach bar does serve terrific lemon slushes though - the Cuban answer to Hawaii’s shave ice, I guess.
Great ending to our first day. An excellent meal at the Cuban Restaurant with a great wine followed by an interesting Aqua Ballet Show at the pool. By then, we’re ready to fall into bed - it’s been a long day.
Nothing like getting off to an early start. The flight to Varadero leaves at 6:30 am so we’re up at 3:30 to get to the airport, park the car and take the shuttle to the terminal for our 4:30 check-in. Surprising number of cars on the road even that early in the morning. Check-in is no problem though our bags are pushing the weight limit (How much do you need for a week?)
Security throws up a roadblock. Doreen has packed a sewing kit in her carry-on luggage and it includes a pair of ‘snips’ for cutting threads. This deadly weapon brings out the red flags - the blades are extremely sharp and at least as long as a fingernail - she can’t be allowed to carry this onto the plane. (I guess they’re afraid we’ll highjack the plane to Cuba - oh, wait, that’s where we’re headed.) Since she paid $30 for these ‘snips’, Doreen isn’t prepared to throw them away. She has to take them back outside the secure area where she’s faced with two choices - either mail them to the house (at a cost of $15) or put them in storage at the airport until we return next week (at a cost of $12).
The flight itself was uneventful. We arrived in Cuba and passed through their security check with no problems. I’m determined not to lose my visa card this time so I’m extra careful with the paperwork. Our ride to the resort is delayed - something about the bus driver being sick (I think that’s what was said) - so we stand around in the blistering heat for almost half an hour. I don’t think we’ll be hearing the word ‘frio’ much this week.
There were four other couples on the bus but there wasn’t much interaction or conversation. Lots to look at on the ride to Breezes as we’d done this ride in the dark in January. We were able to check-in early but had to drag our own bags to the second-floor room (one strike against the four-star rating). Nice, large room but not a lot of places to hang things. Lunch in the dining room was okay but nothing special - very similar to CVJ.
Got some sun after lunch and then prepared for our first snorkel. Major disappointment - the visibility was terrible. The wind is blowing, the sea is roiled up and there’s a lot of sediment in the water. Not much picture taking here. The beach bar does serve terrific lemon slushes though - the Cuban answer to Hawaii’s shave ice, I guess.
Great ending to our first day. An excellent meal at the Cuban Restaurant with a great wine followed by an interesting Aqua Ballet Show at the pool. By then, we’re ready to fall into bed - it’s been a long day.
Friday, January 29, 2010
Final thoughts
Can’t say much about Nolitours’ schedule for our final day. Room check-out is at 12, lunch is served at 1, the bus leaves for the airport at 4:30 and the flight is scheduled for 8:15. (Actually departed at 9:30) Spent a lot of the day sitting around watching our luggage. Did get to work on my picture files in the resort lobby and at the airport terminal. Got a new visa card at the airport so I could leave (and didn’t have to pay the $16 fee we’d been warned about). Doreen had a hard time (not) figuring out how to spend that extra money as we didn’t want to take home any Cuban pesos.
When is an all-inclusive not an all-inclusive? We’ve only done this all-inclusive thing a couple of times. In the past, we’ve usually left our wallets in the safe and left tips for various staff people at the end. That’s not the way it works here. You need to carry a pocketful of pesos all the time. People seem to tip at every meal and with every drink at the bar. You begin to feel you need to tip the maid every day and even when you exchange towels at the pool. The staff are terrific and the ‘tip’ vibe doesn’t seem to be coming from them. It’s just the way everybody seems to do it and you find yourself falling into the routine. It’s very strange.
Almost had a problem with Customs at the Toronto airport. Doreen had used the extra money to pick up another bottle of liqueur and that put us over the limit. Seems the 1.5 liters we were counting on only refers to wine. Liqueurs count as liquor and the limit is 1.14 liters. One agent pointed this out to us but the final check point didn’t bother charging us any extra duty.
How come our bags are never the first off the plane? Somebody has to be first but it’s never been us. By the time we picked up luggage, checked through Customs, picked up the car and drove home, it was almost 2:30. Need to eat something before we can get to sleep. No snow on the ground but it sure is colder than Cuba. Oh, well.
When is an all-inclusive not an all-inclusive? We’ve only done this all-inclusive thing a couple of times. In the past, we’ve usually left our wallets in the safe and left tips for various staff people at the end. That’s not the way it works here. You need to carry a pocketful of pesos all the time. People seem to tip at every meal and with every drink at the bar. You begin to feel you need to tip the maid every day and even when you exchange towels at the pool. The staff are terrific and the ‘tip’ vibe doesn’t seem to be coming from them. It’s just the way everybody seems to do it and you find yourself falling into the routine. It’s very strange.
Almost had a problem with Customs at the Toronto airport. Doreen had used the extra money to pick up another bottle of liqueur and that put us over the limit. Seems the 1.5 liters we were counting on only refers to wine. Liqueurs count as liquor and the limit is 1.14 liters. One agent pointed this out to us but the final check point didn’t bother charging us any extra duty.
How come our bags are never the first off the plane? Somebody has to be first but it’s never been us. By the time we picked up luggage, checked through Customs, picked up the car and drove home, it was almost 2:30. Need to eat something before we can get to sleep. No snow on the ground but it sure is colder than Cuba. Oh, well.
A better second week
Other than a downpour Sunday afternoon, our second week was much nicer than our first. The weather stayed warm (verging on hot) and the jellyfish generally stayed away. We snorkeled every day (except Wednesday) and it ranged from good to great. No further sighting of the lionfish but lots of great coral and fish. Thursday morning was so clear and calm we got a good look at some worms and even a nudibranch. Unfortunately, Sandy got hit by a jellyfish on her way in from our last snorkel session on Saturday morning. She’ll have an uncomfortable plane ride tonight.
We took a taxi into Matanzas on Wednesday and spent some time roaming around the city. Like Havana, there’s a lot of crumbling infrastructure but the city is basically clean (old and dusty but not garbage-strewn, at least in the main areas). We browsed through the local market and that was a lot more interesting than the touristy market in Havana. Then it was off to the stadium and a taste of Cuban baseball. The best part of the experience was watching and listening to the local fans argue baseball. Sure wish we could understand what they were saying. Their enthusiasm and passion overrode language barriers, however.
Thursday night we headed into Havana for the show at the Tropicana–spectacular. We had great seats, the dancing was fabulous and the costumes were magnificent. Laurie got some great videos with his camera. The circus acts which were interspersed to give the dancers time to change costumes were terrific. All-in-all a great (if late) night. We gifted our driver, Jorge, with the bottle of rum we hadn’t consumed.
The only drawback to the week was an influx of new guests and, suddenly, the resort seemed over-crowded with long lines for meal times. Surprisingly, this sense of over-crowding did not extend to the spacious grounds, the beach or the pool.
We took a taxi into Matanzas on Wednesday and spent some time roaming around the city. Like Havana, there’s a lot of crumbling infrastructure but the city is basically clean (old and dusty but not garbage-strewn, at least in the main areas). We browsed through the local market and that was a lot more interesting than the touristy market in Havana. Then it was off to the stadium and a taste of Cuban baseball. The best part of the experience was watching and listening to the local fans argue baseball. Sure wish we could understand what they were saying. Their enthusiasm and passion overrode language barriers, however.
Thursday night we headed into Havana for the show at the Tropicana–spectacular. We had great seats, the dancing was fabulous and the costumes were magnificent. Laurie got some great videos with his camera. The circus acts which were interspersed to give the dancers time to change costumes were terrific. All-in-all a great (if late) night. We gifted our driver, Jorge, with the bottle of rum we hadn’t consumed.
The only drawback to the week was an influx of new guests and, suddenly, the resort seemed over-crowded with long lines for meal times. Surprisingly, this sense of over-crowding did not extend to the spacious grounds, the beach or the pool.
Thursday, January 28, 2010
Snorkel, snorkel, snorkel
Our first venture into the water did not have a promising beginning. The water was cooler than expected and there was a lot of garbage. We went to the left of the buoy to check out the drop-off area. We finally got out far enough to see some nice coral. Not a whole lot of fish but some interesting species. Saw (and avoided) only one jellyfish. Lasted less than an hour before the cold seeped in and we started back. On the way in I spotted a nice peacock flounder and then a moray eel. Yes!! Doreen was annoyed that she’d missed them.
It was quite cool when we exited the water. The facilities for rinsing gear/bodies was woefully inadequate so we headed back to the room to use the shower to rinse off and warm up. (The hot water here is really hot.) Later we did some beachcombing before enjoying the outdoor barbeque. Tried to get some sun by the pool after lunch but the wind picked up and the sun disappeared. No second snorkel this afternoon.
We got our second snorkel in on Friday morning (joined by Sandy and Laurie) and it was even better. We did the same area but there was a lot less garbage in the water. But the wind changed and, by afternoon, the beach was red-flagged because of the jellyfish–several people had been stung earlier. It’s warmed up nicely so I sunned by the pool while Doreen and Sandy went beach combing.
The beach was still red-flagged on Saturday morning so we walked around the corner to the next cove and snorkeled there. No problem with jellyfish but hardly worth the effort. In the afternoon we snorkeled the area in front of the pool and found a great patch of coral and some interesting fish. Much better than the morning snorkel.
On Sunday morning we decided to try the area to the right of the buoy. On the way out, Doreen spotted a fairly large octopus and we watched it for awhile. Once we got across the boat channel, the visibility cleared up. The coral was great and, as the guy in the dive shop had said, there were lots of big fish. Then, to top things off, I drifted over the edge of the coral and there were two lionfish–the first time we’ve seen lionfish outside an aquarium. What a thrill!!
It was quite cool when we exited the water. The facilities for rinsing gear/bodies was woefully inadequate so we headed back to the room to use the shower to rinse off and warm up. (The hot water here is really hot.) Later we did some beachcombing before enjoying the outdoor barbeque. Tried to get some sun by the pool after lunch but the wind picked up and the sun disappeared. No second snorkel this afternoon.
We got our second snorkel in on Friday morning (joined by Sandy and Laurie) and it was even better. We did the same area but there was a lot less garbage in the water. But the wind changed and, by afternoon, the beach was red-flagged because of the jellyfish–several people had been stung earlier. It’s warmed up nicely so I sunned by the pool while Doreen and Sandy went beach combing.
The beach was still red-flagged on Saturday morning so we walked around the corner to the next cove and snorkeled there. No problem with jellyfish but hardly worth the effort. In the afternoon we snorkeled the area in front of the pool and found a great patch of coral and some interesting fish. Much better than the morning snorkel.
On Sunday morning we decided to try the area to the right of the buoy. On the way out, Doreen spotted a fairly large octopus and we watched it for awhile. Once we got across the boat channel, the visibility cleared up. The coral was great and, as the guy in the dive shop had said, there were lots of big fish. Then, to top things off, I drifted over the edge of the coral and there were two lionfish–the first time we’ve seen lionfish outside an aquarium. What a thrill!!
We're off to see the city
Three days of cool, windy weather has exhausted the supply of optional activities. We’ve hiked up and down the shore, we’ve explored the local roads, there isn’t much else to do. Thank God for Laurie and Sandy, a couple from British Columbia, who have turned out to be our travel doppelgangers. Laurie’s a transplanted Aussie and a retired teacher/principal who met Sandy while studying at UBC. Conversations with them have helped alleviate our frustration and pass the time.
Wednesday we’re off to Havana on a tour bus. Not our usual style but we wanted to see the city and hadn’t done any serious research to facilitate independent travel so we opted for the group. Andy, the guide, tried to make the hour-long ride into the city interesting but, having to give his spiel in both French and English tended to make things drag. We made a couple of stops in ‘Old Havana’ (mainly geared to tourists gawking) before lunch at the Zaragoanza Restaurant for a nice lunch.
At the Plaza d’Armes, we got a chance to roam on our own and had a look at the cathedral and then wandered down a few side streets. There was a group of photogenic street musicians at the back of the plaza. (Not sure how musically talented they were but they had interesting faces.) Lots of amazing architecture, most undergoing some degree of repair. Wish we had better language skills.
After lunch we drove through ‘New Havana’ for a quick look at Revolution Square, the site of Fidel’s speeches. Then it was off to the rum factory for a tour (entertaining host) and a taste (not nearly enough) but I did get a bottle of 7 year-old rum to take home. Enjoyed watching the street life while we waited for the group to re-form and the bus to return. As we left, we got a middle-finger salute from a little boy who was underwhelmed by the handout he hadn’t received.
The final stop was a market designed to provide tourists with their Cuban souvenirs. Definitely not our cup of tea. We did exchange some Canadian money for Cuban pesos and then wandered outside and had a look at the neighborhood. Beautiful stained glass windows at the former Cathedral de San Francisco de Pueblo but we couldn’t get inside to really appreciate them.
The ride back was a bit of a drag but at least the temperature is warming up. Now, if only the jellyfish would disappear, we might get a chance to check out the snorkeling.
Wednesday we’re off to Havana on a tour bus. Not our usual style but we wanted to see the city and hadn’t done any serious research to facilitate independent travel so we opted for the group. Andy, the guide, tried to make the hour-long ride into the city interesting but, having to give his spiel in both French and English tended to make things drag. We made a couple of stops in ‘Old Havana’ (mainly geared to tourists gawking) before lunch at the Zaragoanza Restaurant for a nice lunch.
At the Plaza d’Armes, we got a chance to roam on our own and had a look at the cathedral and then wandered down a few side streets. There was a group of photogenic street musicians at the back of the plaza. (Not sure how musically talented they were but they had interesting faces.) Lots of amazing architecture, most undergoing some degree of repair. Wish we had better language skills.
After lunch we drove through ‘New Havana’ for a quick look at Revolution Square, the site of Fidel’s speeches. Then it was off to the rum factory for a tour (entertaining host) and a taste (not nearly enough) but I did get a bottle of 7 year-old rum to take home. Enjoyed watching the street life while we waited for the group to re-form and the bus to return. As we left, we got a middle-finger salute from a little boy who was underwhelmed by the handout he hadn’t received.
The final stop was a market designed to provide tourists with their Cuban souvenirs. Definitely not our cup of tea. We did exchange some Canadian money for Cuban pesos and then wandered outside and had a look at the neighborhood. Beautiful stained glass windows at the former Cathedral de San Francisco de Pueblo but we couldn’t get inside to really appreciate them.
The ride back was a bit of a drag but at least the temperature is warming up. Now, if only the jellyfish would disappear, we might get a chance to check out the snorkeling.
Wednesday, January 27, 2010
C is for Cuba, C is for cold
We’re not off to a good start here. Cuba is having the same kind of abnormally low temperatures as the southeast part of the US. The most common phrase we’ve heard from the locals (both resort workers and townspeople) is “mucho frio”. We didn’t bring enough warm clothes for an extended period of chilly weather. The sweater, jacket and long pants were only supposed to get me from the car to the plane.
We had an uneventful flight from Toronto to Varadero (slight delay re departure time) and a hour-long taxi ride to the resort. Couldn’t see much of the countryside in the dark. Check-in went quickly except that I had lost my visa card at the airport. (I’ll have to pay $16 Cuban for another card if I want to leave the country.)
Our oceanfront room was quite small, with only a narrow aisle between bed and desk to get from one side of the room to the other. Very awkward. Slept well in a very chilly room. Certainly didn’t need the a/c. After breakfast, we requested a room change. The new room is larger and quieter (mountain-view) but we had to settle for twin beds.
The food is adequate (we won’t starve) but I think we’ll be eating the same thing for the next two weeks. Good thing we’re not gourmands. My biggest gripe is that there’s no hot water available at dinner so I can have tea only at breakfast. Guess I won’t be using all my tea bags. Didn’t like the Nolitours rep’s comments about things disappearing if left on the beach while swimming or snorkeling or left hanging outside to dry. Heard several stories later of people losing things though we didn’t have any such problems ourselves.
Because the weather was so cool and windy, we spent the first few days hiking and walking the shoreline. Not much danger of sunburn so far. Interesting to turn on the television and watch the CTV news from Toronto (the same newscast we watch at home). The news from Haiti put a damper on things.
We had an uneventful flight from Toronto to Varadero (slight delay re departure time) and a hour-long taxi ride to the resort. Couldn’t see much of the countryside in the dark. Check-in went quickly except that I had lost my visa card at the airport. (I’ll have to pay $16 Cuban for another card if I want to leave the country.)
Our oceanfront room was quite small, with only a narrow aisle between bed and desk to get from one side of the room to the other. Very awkward. Slept well in a very chilly room. Certainly didn’t need the a/c. After breakfast, we requested a room change. The new room is larger and quieter (mountain-view) but we had to settle for twin beds.
The food is adequate (we won’t starve) but I think we’ll be eating the same thing for the next two weeks. Good thing we’re not gourmands. My biggest gripe is that there’s no hot water available at dinner so I can have tea only at breakfast. Guess I won’t be using all my tea bags. Didn’t like the Nolitours rep’s comments about things disappearing if left on the beach while swimming or snorkeling or left hanging outside to dry. Heard several stories later of people losing things though we didn’t have any such problems ourselves.
Because the weather was so cool and windy, we spent the first few days hiking and walking the shoreline. Not much danger of sunburn so far. Interesting to turn on the television and watch the CTV news from Toronto (the same newscast we watch at home). The news from Haiti put a damper on things.
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