Thursday, May 10, 2012

To infinity (Victoria Peak) and beyond


    Buzz Lightyear may have gone to infinity and beyond but this morning we went to Victoria Peak and back again. Then I went to Victoria Peak again. And back again, again.
    It all started early since we were up and showered by 5 am. The hotel doesn’t start serving breakfast until 6 so we have time to plan our day. We decided to do ‘The Peak’ since it was at the top (literally and figuratively) of both our lists. We walked to the bus stop a couple of blocks from the hotel and caught a double-decker tram that would take us close to the Star Ferry dock. From there, we would catch a bus that would take us to the tram station for the ride up to the Peak.
    For a while when we started out I thought I was back home. First we were on Water Street, then Queen’s Road, then Central Street. Reality set in when we turned onto Dried Seaweed Street. Don’t think St. John’s has anything to match that. We had a nice view of the traffic-clogged streets from the upper deck. Stations were announced in English but, between the street noises (no upper windows in the tram) and the creaks and groans of the tram itself, it was sometimes difficult to hear clearly.
    No problem. We got off the tram, walked to the ferry dock and found the waiting area for our bus to the Peak tram station. By this time it’s almost 8:30. Now we have a problem - this bus doesn’t start running until 10. The map of the bus route suggests that it’s only a short walk (20 minutes or so) so we decide to hoof it. In the meantime, we’ve picked an Australian straggler. Ted’s a recent widow adjusting to traveling without his longtime partner. But he has a knee problem so we end up with an interesting conversation but a much slower walk.
    The tram is a funicular that slowly rises up the mountain. At times the incline is so severe you feel as if the cars would flip over backwards if they weren’t attached to the pulley. The trees and highrises we pass look like they belong in Pisa. It’s an interesting visual. Unfortunately, the tram doesn’t take you all the way to the top. That would be too easy.
    When we exit the tram station, the Peak is still shrouded in fog which hasn’t burnt off yet. We decided to walk to the top anyway, hoping for the best. Ted decided his knee couldn’t handle it so we bid farewell. It’s a pretty steep climb but we took our time and eventually made it to the Peak. Or at least the end of the road. You couldn’t see anything but white. No chance to see buildings or harbour or islands. You could barely see the base of the radio tower before the structure disappeared in the fog. Oh well, it is what it is. When you have only a few days in a place things don’t always work out for the best.
    We made our way back down to the tram station and went up to the observation deck. Bathed in brilliant sunshine, we had some gorgeous views of the Hong Kong skyline with Kowloon across the harbour. We took lots of pictures. I’m sure there will be lots of repetitive views. Hopefully I’ll be able to stitch together a decent panorama. By now, it’s almost 11:30 and we’re feeling a little hungry so we decide to grab some muffins and lemonade before heading down.
    While we’re snacking, Doreen looks out the window and comments that the Peak is now fog-free. We won’t get another opportunity to do this so I grab my camera and unipod and head back up the hill. Doreen decides to sit this one out so she’ll look after my backpack and I can travel lighter. It’s still quite a slog but I have high hopes for an outstanding panorama. I get to the top and, without the fog, I have gorgeous views of the outer harbour and the islands to the west.
    What I don’t have is a view of the inner harbour and the highrises of central Hong Kong. What we couldn’t see in the fog earlier is that tree growth blocks almost all the view to the right. It was much better on the observation deck. Oh, well. I take a few pictures and head back to find Doreen. I time myself on the return and it takes me 12 minutes from Peak to tram station. We wander around and take a few more pictures and then line-up for the ride back down the mountain.
    The ride down isn’t as interesting as the ride up. They don’t turn the funicular around and the seats don’t swivel so you ride backwards down the mountain. That was disappointing. What we could see by looking over our shoulders was amazing. It was also hard to take pictures in the cramped quarters.
    It’s not exactly Hillary and Everest but we’ve done Victoria Peak and now we can move on to other items on our list.

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